Day 5: Shanklin to Ryde

Well, it was a bit touch and go this morning. We didn't know if we were going to be able to do the walk today but some careful medical attention to very sensitive toes paid off and we left the Belmont Hotel just before 9 am. 

 

The weather was cold, windy and a bit rainy but nothing we hadn't seen before. The first part of the walk took us along the shore towards Culver Down (why do Downs always seem to go up?). 

 

(That's Culver Down in the distance.)

 

 

We passed three towns in total: Shanklin, Lake and Sandown which really seemed to be the same town along the shore as they were all joined up and indistinguishable from each other. 

Then we began to ascend the Down. (See? It doesn't make sense!)

 

 

 

Dad was stumped on the breed of these cows. They're beautiful amd fluffy and had really long horns. 

 

At the top of the Down, we realised that a Down eventually does indeed go down, and we had our first proper "we're lost" moment as the very well signposted trail stopped being well signposted. Dad managed to fall into a rabbit hole (but didn't end up in Wonderland) and thankfully didn't break, sprain or bruise anything. I asked him a hundred times and he says he's okay. He did manage to completely bend my trekking pole in the process but thankfully I have the World's Strongest Dad and he managed to bend it back into shape.

 

(A memorial to some chap who was a Yachtsman.)

We eventually found the trail again and made our way down towards St Helen's where we stopped for lunch. 

 

 

The locals weren't particularly chatty. 

 

A Lifeboat launch point. 

 

We then walked across a beautiful causeway at Old Mill Ponds which lead us through a few quiet fields and oak tree lined roads. 

Here is a photo of the Causeway:

 

 

Another pair of locals who didn't want to talk about the leak in their boat. 

 

We found a particularly lovely oak tree to sit next to for our afternoon snack. 

 

We finally rounded the home stretch to Ryde, where we saw the pier we landed on six days ago. 

 

It's really there. Look carefully in the distance behind us. 

And at last we arrived in Ryde, where we checked into a Castle. We think we deserve it, after all. 

 

These boots did 72 miles in five days. We're pretty proud of ourselves and have a real sense of accomplishment. We're very tired and sore, but we had a completely fantastic time!

 

 

Cheers!!

Love,

Esther and Jim

Day 4: Brighstone to Shanklin

To quote the Dean's Virger of St. Paul's Cathedral, "Holy living Lord almighty!" What a day. We're both very tired and very sore having walked another 27 kms (16 miles) mostly up and down steep hills. But it was worth it!

The day began just after 9 am and was very much like the end of yesterday scenery-wise. 

 

We took a tiny shortcut to avoid the first Chine on the path. (We have decided we don't like Chines at all, thank you very much.)

 

Another beautiful day to walk and we started off by looking back at where we'd been the day before. 

 

Dad found another good field and had to take a picture.

 

Much of the pathway seemed to be eroding away, including this rather alarming chunk that had separated from the cliff edge. We didn't get too close to inspect it. 

 

Another good field. This one is Canola (known as rapeseed in the U.K.).

 

We stopped for an early lunch in Chale, where the bell tower chimed like St. Paul's. 

 

 

 

We then hiked up a very steep hill at Blackgang Chine where we heard children screaming as the were riding the rollercoaster at the local park. (Or perhaps they'd accidentally stumbled upon the Naturist Resort...? We'll never know...)

 

 

Finally we made it to the southernmost point of the Coastal Path, so we had to take a selfie. This was only half our day!

Dad and I couldn't quite believe the size of this field. It must have been a couple hundred acres and was beautifully cultivated and was just sprouting its winter barley or wheat. 

 

The path continued on through more ivy tunnels. At times it felt like Narnia and we'd find snow on the other side. 

Ventnor was a sleepy little town that reminded us of Tobermory, Ontario. 

 

 

 

We spent some time trying to work out how much concrete it'd take to build the seaside path we took alongside the island but we gave up as every time we turned a corner, there was more concrete!

 

 

The clear, easy concrete was followed by the most difficult section of the path as it seemed we went straight up and then straight down. Our blisters and sore legs didn't enjoy it very much but it was still beautiful with these old stone walls lining parts of the pathway. Very rewarding. 

Finally, Shanklin came into view. 

 

The most rewarding thing today is the bathtub in your room! (We've only had showers the last three nights.) And so I'm going to soak myself before tea and then out to the Old Village for dinner. 

 

The Belmont Hotel wins the prize for the biggest room to date *and* a bathtub!! 22 kms (13.5 miles) tomorrow, if our poor feet can take it!

Thanks everyone for the lovely comments on these posts!

Brighstone in the evening

Just a few photos from tonight. Brighstone is lovely and we wanted to share that with you. 

 

Willses B&B. Highly recommend this place. 

 

Tiny door. 

I mean honestly. What a reward after a long day!

 

Cheers!!

Day 3: Yarmouth to Brighstone

Another day done! Although I think the idea that this was a shorter day was actually quite far from the truth. The Ordnance Survey app and my step counting app both said that we walked 27 km or 16.7 miles. It certainly feels like it. 

 

We left the Bugle Coaching Inn at 9 am and were very glad to have our waterproofs. Not because it was raining, but because a significant part of the north coast of the path was right alongside the shore and the winds were high enough to bring some of the sea onto us. 

 

 

 

 

 

We started to head uphill to a beautiful section of the trail that leads to the Needles. This section reminded us of Yorkshire, oddly, but with more sea. Lots of heather, short grass and scrubby bushes everywhere. 

 

But what a view!

 

We continued past the tourist centre at the Needles and took in the view - and were very nearly taken away with the wind. Dad was feeling a little woozy up this high so we continued along the path heading west before sitting down for some lunch. 

 

 

(Also, PD: Sticks are great!!)

 

 

We then continued up a very long ridge to Tennyson Monument. We really enjoyed this part of the walk as it was great to be able to look back on how far we'd come. 

 

 

The Needles are at the end of those white cliffs!

 

We walked round Freshwater Bay and then continued along the red shore and cliffs until Brighstone. 

 

 

 

 

 

(Sheep for Susan and Al!)

 

And we've arrived in Brighstone!!

 

We're staying at a beautiful thatch roofed bed and breakfast and will head out shortly for dinner and a pint (or two) at the local pub. 

 

(Here's one we had earlier.)

We walk to Shanklin tomorrow! And the sea remains on our right!!