Day 3: Harestanes to Morebattle

 

Today I am thankful for:

1) Waterproofs

2) Sunscreen 

3) Walking sticks

 

 

I caught the bus (another journey during the soul-destroying morning commute in the Borders) and returned to Harestanes Visitor Centre, finally joining up with St Cuthbert's Way at 10 am. 

 

 

 

The trail continued through the same Divet Ha' Wood and past Monteviot House - which appeared to be closed. The grounds were beautiful, though, and meandered through fields and riverbanks until meeting up with this suspension bridge. 

 

The bridge has a bit of a history, apparently, and has fallen down several times until this one was completed in 1999. It was about one person wide, and lived up to its Suspension Description in that the high winds made it exceptionally wobbly to walk across. I was very glad to get to the other side without slipping or dropping anything in the river!

 

The trail carried on along the River Tweed, where a met a very friendly woman travelling in the opposite direction. She said that she was walking from Land's End to John O'Groats - and had started her walk on 23 April. I wished her luck and decided that 63 miles isn't much at all.... but enough for me, for now. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next bit of the walk was rather up and down, over roads and bridges, along another piece of the Roman Road Dere Street, near rivers and farms, passing great pine plantations and cow pastures. The sun peeked out occasionally (sunscreen a must today!) and I was treated to a little display of fighter jets chasing each other over the hill. 

 

I also saw a lot of wildlife today. If I've got my figures right I saw six rabbits, two blue herons, several ducks and squirrels and one rather startled deer. But not a single bear. Unfortunately all of the animals were too quick to catch a photo... but I'll see what I can capture tomorrow. 

 

The last interesting feature of the walk was Cessford Castle - which doesn't look particularly wind- or water-proof but was obviously once quite a sight on the hillside. It was owned by the Kers and was used to withstand heavy assault during various conflicts with the English between 1519 and 1544. Today, it's just a lovely place for sheep to play. (Fun fact: according to my guidebook, the term 'Kerry-pawed' comes from the Kers as most of them were left-handed. Whoodathunk?)

 

 

The last 2.5 miles were lovely to look at but quite unpleasant to walk on. It was entirely on asphalt road with not much of a grass edge to use to relieve my feet. It was also the moment that the skies decided to open. Thankfully, I could hear - and see - it coming for about a mile behind me. The wind picked up rather violently and I managed to get my raincoats (mine and my rucksack's) in place before it hit. It only lasted about 40 minutes (the petrichor smell was amazing!) and then the sun came out again and I started to feel a lot like a steamed dumpling. The walking sticks made the asphalt so much easier to bear and my feet were very relieved to get my shoes off when I arrived at the pub accommodation in Morebattle. 

 

Morebattle is the first place along the route which has next to no internet connection at all. I'm writing this blog today and will do my best to post it tonight - but who knows what will actually happen! In any case, I haven't been eaten by a bear!

 

I've settled in, just before a great big downpour. Obviously, it's time for a (half) pint. 

 

Cheers!!