I couldn't have had better weather today.
It was sunny and hot (21C) all day long and I had a (mostly) gentle breeze to cool me off all the way from Kirk Yetholm to Wooler.
The day started with a steady climb up the Pennine Way passing hillforts and valleys. And sheep. And cows. Quite a few cows, actually. Nice break from the sheep.
The climb peaked at the border between Scotland and England, where no one checked for my passport or the size of my carry on luggage. I then made my way across a fairly plain but rolling hillside to the valley below.
I had a bit of a break from the beating sun in a little pine plantation. It's somewhere around here that Lord Collingwood (Nelson's Number 2) attempted to plant some oak trees to eventually build Royal Navy ships with. Unsurprisingly, the trees didn't grow well because the soil is more suitable for conifers and the wind would stunt their growth. Anyway, Collingwood is now buried next to Nelson at St Paul's Cathedral and I may have to go have a word with him about trees when I get back.
After the wood, I passed a little sheep farm where the farmers were heading out in their quad bikes to see their sheep. There were four dogs with them - lovely Border Collies - who could barely contain their excitement about their trip to the fields. They sped off so fast I could barely get a picture ... but you might be able to spot them in the photo below.
The trail then meandered slowly down to Hethpool, where I got a little lost.
No worries, though, as the trail became evident again and I made my way up (again) over heather-covered, scrubby land with many, many rabbits and no bears. Yeavering Bell was quite a sight to see (the panorama photo above) and is Northumberland's largest hillfort, apparently, and still has rubble on the top where the fort was. There are also wild goats that live on (and near) it. I saw things that could have been goats - or sheep - so I don't know if I actually saw one. They have spectacular horns, and I didn't see any evidence of that.
Now. If I could pause here to tell you about something that I learned today: the popular and mystifying sport of Hill Running. I met a Hill Runner today who told me all about it. As far as I can tell, it is a sport in which 60-80 year old men dress in as little as possible and run up and down these hills while making a noise something like a horse with acute emphysema. It's rather alarming. The man I spoke to said he was worried that the sport was dying away, and I chose not to say "Maybe if you didn't try to kill yourselves running up and down these hills...". Anyway, good for them, and I would never in my life want to do that. I think I saw about six Hill Runners including one who sneaked up behind me in the *middle of nowhere* and nearly scared me to death. He wasn't doing the horse impression well enough. You may be able to spot him running off into the distance, below. He's wearing red.
Anyway, back to the walk.
As I carried on over the hills, my OS Maps App promised me Grouse Butts. Sad to say, I didn't see a single Grouse Butt, but I saw a lot of sheep butts. The one above walked ahead of me for some time before finding something more interesting to do.
Finally, some shade. I stopped in the wood to have my tea and granola bar and then eventually ended up in Wooler (which is just in the distance in the photo above) and found my B&B. It was a long walk today in the sun but very enjoyable - and I'm very much looking forward to my dinner at the local Italian restaurant tonight! Another similar walk tomorrow but with less up-and-down so the guidebook promises! Time to put my feet up!
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